Which materials are best for cold weather?

There are too many winter jackets out there to even count, with each one claiming to be the best in some way and offering protection the others can’t, but how are you supposed to tell which ones are actually good and which ones are just advertising claims? It doesn’t matter what the store selling it says, it all comes down to what the item of clothing is made of, as materials like polyester are always made the same way and so will provide the same protection with thickness being the only major factor.

Here’s a list of the different types of materials to help you choose which materials are best for cold weather.

Wool

Advantages – very warm, reasonably cheap

Disadvantages – heavier than other materials of the same thickness, very heavy when wet, takes a very long time to dry out and offers little wind protection.

Best use – Middle layer
Worst use – Outer or base layer

The best use of wool clothing is as an under-layer to provide extra warmth, and most certainly not as something you should wear to protect against the elements. It’s very easy to get wet and the large amount of air within the fibres can quickly soak up moisture and allow cold air to blow through it. As an under-layer that’s protected by something on the outside, it can provide a great deal of warmth but isn’t as effective as other materials when considering weight or size. It should be avoided as an outer layer as it offers next to no protection against water, and when used as a base layer can become uncomfortable and itchy when you start to sweat.

When it comes to wool there are several types to choose from, such as cable knit, Merino, and cashmere wool, all of which have different levels of flexibility and warmth but share the same flaws. The more expensive types such as cashmere offer much better warmth and flexibility than the others, but still don’t include the level of water resistance you’d want for an outer layer.

Fleece

Advantages – Cheap, fast drying, lightweight
Disadvantages – Soaks up moisture very quickly, low protection against the wind, rigid when thick

Best use – Mid or base layer
Worst use – Outer layer

Fleece is an excellent choice for a mid-layer since it offers both warmth and flexibility. Some of the heavier fleece tops have a certain degree of water resistance but are never truly waterproof and the heavier ones can become stiff and hard to move in. The very thin versions are good as a base layer since they are basically very warm t-shirts and the smooth material feels comfortable on the skin. As an outer layer, they are only really effective in mild weather when it’s not raining, but when it comes to arctic conditions if you’re relying on just a fleece to protect you, you’re going to be disappointed.

Polyester

Advantages – Quick drying, water-resistant, flexible, wind-resistant, lightweight
Disadvantages – Poor warmth factor, not very breathable, uncomfortable as anything other than an outer layer

Best use – outer layer in mild conditions
Worst use – mid or under-layers

Polyester is a type of synthetic fabric similar to plastic, with there being several different versions. It has a good level of water resistance but isn’t considered 100% waterproof, although there are some heavier versions that claim to be 100% water resistant, though I personally wouldn’t want to put it to the test during a blizzard or torrential rain. The biggest problem with this material is that it’s normally quite thin and doesn’t provide much protection from the cold, with it commonly being used in things like urban jackets and outer shells for mild climates.

On its own, it isn’t a great choice for the more extreme colder climates, and its wrinkly texture can make it uncomfortable as anything other than an outer layer. The other big issue is that the material is one of the least breathable you can get and causes sweating if to close to the skin without a more breathable layer in between.

Cotton

Advantages – Comfortable, Warm, breathable, flexible
Disadvantages – Low water resistance

Best use – Under-layer
Worst use – Anything other than an under-layer

Cotton is neither water nor windproof and is a waste of time when it comes to protecting you from the elements. It is quite breathable and comfortable and provides a decent level of warmth for how thick it is. It is one of the few materials that remains highly flexible when the thickness is increased and can often be found as a lining under a more resistant outer layer in jackets.

These are the most common types of materials used within winter clothing, none of which can provide the combination of warmth and waterproofing someone would think they’d need in arctic conditions, so how do you choose the right type of material for your winter clothing?

The answer comes by combining the right materials for the intended climate, with the Antarctica expedition parkas being good examples. Most of these jackets are very expensive and can easily reach £1000 each, but the materials are normally just a combination of cotton and polyester. The Canadian goose jackets were the official choice of field workers at the McMurdo research facility in Antarctica, and are made of 85% polyester with 15% cotton, materials that are both cheap and plentiful.

When choosing your winter clothing it’s important to not get ripped off by companies claiming their cotton and polyester jackets are much better than a cheaper jacket of the exact same materials. The effects of waterproofing are exactly the same on each item of clothing, it’s only the method and chemicals used to do so that differ, so if something is 100% waterproof and made of regular materials and includes an insulating layer, then don’t get fooled into buying one ten times more expensive than you need to.